this hike has been on my mind for a little while. And like most of my adventures that happened fortuitously with a drop in airfare from New York to Edinburgh Scotland. How can I pass up $500 round trip? So I started cramming my online research.
We started off in Edinburgh. From there it was a train ride to Milngavie. Traveling is so simple in Scotland they have a wonderful rail service.
And almost as if on cue, the rains began as we embarked. We had 96 miles in front of us.
the trail passes right by the Glencoe distillery. So we made a side trip.
we had planned to hike into Drymmen for our first night. But pushed on when we heard there was a great little restaurant/ pub called Clachan. I would recommend passing the Drymmen campsite. It’s nowhere near the town as they advertise on their website. And the proprietor was not very friendly.
this was our initial mileage into Clachan. After a very delicious meal and a couple of beverages we pushed on to find our first wild camping spot.
it was a wonderful place in the pine trees adjacent to a pasture full of sheep which would follow us the entire trip. Okay not the same herd but sheep were everywhere.
I’m posting up my mileages and GPS coordinates so folks can find their own route. Again one of the main reasons I was there was to take advantage of the Scottish wild camping rules. There’s a freedom in being able to pitch a tent wherever you like. We had a very restful night and we’re up the next morning for our days walk into the loch.
The rain began almost immediately out of camp. As a result we chose to bypass conic Hill as the views would be non-existent. This is not a deviation from the Highland Way. Just an alternate weather route. The mileage is actually longer.
As we dropped down we got our first views of loch Lomond. But the rain persisted. We found a nice little lakeside tavern to have some lunch at Balmaha.
I’ve always wanted to spend some time in and around a Scottish loch. I’m drawn to them because I’m a water sign but also because they’re natural.. I enjoy the lakes in East Tennessee but they’re all unnatural. They are man-made. Knowing that these have been here forever as a result of the glaciers is just fascinating to me.
We got a little turned around navigationally during this rain. Eventually we were righted and started climbing some hills.
but the drizzling rain persisted.
we followed the loch for days. This day we were just resigned to having wet feet. Slosh sloshing through puddle after puddle. Climbing up and over roots.. passing the infamous Rob Roy cave. It was probably my least favorite day. We stopped at another little place for a late afternoon snack. I believe it was fish and chips. At this point we started running into fellow hikers who were having their gear shuttled in advance. I learned that most people hiking this trail didn’t really do the wild camping like we did. They would stay at hostels or nice hotels along the way. There were services that would ferry your luggage in advance.
we did right at 16.24 miles and decided to camp lakeside, once we exited the only real no camping zone along the way. The reason for this exclusion was the beauty of the loch. You can tell how people would drive up and abuse that privilege if allowed to do so. We had a beautiful spot for our second night. This was several miles outside Balmaha. I believe we hiked from there to Inversnaid and Rowardeneen.
I think we both had enough after about 12.43 miles on day 3. All the wet root walking and sloshing around took its toll.
Dry feet sounded good when we found this Backcountry shelter known as Doune bothy. This is the Scottish word for shelter apparently. And it was very nice.
We were joined that rainy night by our new friend Marius and his son and his son’s friend. These energetic young boys started a fire for us there. Toni enjoyed that.
They would shadow us for the rest of our time. Scottish hospitality is unequaled. As the rain beat down overnight we were glad to be in dry diggs. Unlike the Appalachian trail shelters this one appeared to be mouse free.
the weather promised to look a little better the following morning. So we headed towards Tyndrum.
this was also a pretty wet day. By the time we came rolling into Tyndrum, we were ready to put down roots. We are done 15.73 mi this day.
we sat down at a small pub that wasn’t very hiker friendly. That night we ended up paying to camp for varying reasons. I estimated that my hiking partner was in need of a shower and some respite. The good thing about this camp spot there north of Tyndrum, is they had what’s called a drying room. There you can hang clothes and within 2 hours there would be totally dry. How they developed this technology in the middle of nowhere I have no idea but it did involve a serious dehumidifier. I don’t like paying to camp in campgrounds as you know.
But my partner was refreshed after drying her clothes and taking a shower. I did not avail myself of the shower but definitely should have. After a quick breakfast we’re back on the road, it was going to be a big day. We got turned around trying to get out of town. We regained the route and started climbing climbing climbing.
A potentially drier day was forecast, but that was not to be the case. I never removed my pack cover the entire trip nor did I hardly remove my jacket. We walked through pasteur lands and then got on to some area that was just one big muck pit. And immediately rewetted our preciously dry shoes. That was kind of aggravating.
We crossed this River at the bridge of Orchy. And then started climbing. This was going to be our longest day.
I recall after crossing the bridge of Orchy, we went up a big hill. Then we were kind of alone in a pine forest. I remember a side trail heading down into Crianlarich. It was half a mile downhill so we opted not to do it. We marched on until another loch came into view. Then the weather got kind of nice for a bit. We stopped at a little place for lunch but all they had was take away pre-boxed sandwiches.. I remember being a very picturesque place. The sun was out which lifted our spirits. I purchased a chicken sandwich from the store. It may have been the worst mayonnaise chicken sandwich I’ve ever had in my life. But I scarfed it down as there was a big caloric deficiency and we had plenty more miles to go. There was a big hill coming up again. And it seemed to go on and on forever. But the landscape and scenery was dramatic.
At almost 20 miles we finally came rolling into the King’s house. This was the day that seemed like it would never end. Here in the shadow of Ben Nevis that iconic mountain. We were able to camp by the river right near the King’s house
It is a wonderful hotel, very high class. They were so kind to allow us to camp out there. It is a definite not miss area if you’re doing the West Highland Way. After a 20 mi day I was tired. Just a note if you plan on getting there and taking advantage of the pub, these pubs close early. Which means you must get your food order in as soon as you get there. By early I mean 8:00 sometimes.
A lot of climbing photography was there in the pub at the lobby of the hotel. Ben Nevis is integral to the European climbing scene.
We followed the sheep again for several miles.
This day we were to tackle the infamous devil’s staircase.
people over there make a big fuss about it but for Appalachian trail hikers it’s not that big a deal. It is a staircase up for several hundred feet.
I remember after topping out having some of the best views of the trip. We were headed down into Kinlochleven. By now the sun was radiating gloriously.
behind me is what remains of the world’s indoor largest ice climbing arena. It was something to see I imagine during its day. But is now shuttered for financial reasons.
this is a view of the town after we left, having enjoyed a nice lunch in a local pub. It is a typical Scottish town. Remote and spotless. We ran across a couple of friends from Boston that were on their second day out. They had camped beside us at King’s house. I had no idea how many miles we would do this day. But the beautiful weather and trail kept luring us onward and onward.
what greeted US was another pretty good climb.
we were in some amazing geography, but there was still a lot of water on the trail. Which explains what happens next. While making one of the million crossings, Toni took a pretty good fall in the water. We walked for a bit but realized it was time to get her dry.
I found a nice place in the pine trees. I set up the tent and she crawled in to dry herself. She’s pretty tough in that respect. I started a small but temporary fire mainly for the smoke to keep the midges away. They are a pestilence of the first order. Imagine mosquitoes at 1/10 the size. You have to wear a headnet.
Our second leg of this day we did this many miles.
turned out being a 16.85 mi hike. Plenty for one hiking day and our blistered feet. It was a nice, peaceful and solitary camping spot.
I personally found the last few days to be some of the most picturesque of the trip. And solitary I might add. I don’t know if it’s because we were doing longer miles than most people. And I think most people were tied to itineraries due to having their luggage shuttled and staying in hotels etc. One thing I will say is that my pack was entirely too heavy. Weighing in at 40 lb I carried more gear than needed. This was because we needed to expect all kinds of weather. Strangely I used most all the gear except a couple of pieces of top layer clothing.
It’s hard to cull pictures for this experience.
Our last day promised about 8 or 9 mi to the finish line. Much of it was downhill. We had experienced a couple of days of pretty decent weather. But that would change. One rain storm kept us on the side of the street as we entered the outskirts of Fort William. This was where we noticed a sheep had gotten its head stuck in a fence. Toni was ready to cut it out. Apparently all it took to extricate the sheep was made to jump the fence. The fear of my approach forced the sheep to pull its head out. And run free to the herd. While we sheltered under a tree from the rain, our friends Marius and the boys came marching in. We hadn’t seen them in a couple of days just before King’s house. On our big day we noticed they had pitched a Trailside camp. In a very beautiful spot I might add.
it was good to have them join us for the last leg of this journey.
Fort William is a very enchanting place. Lots of good seafood in this Oceanside town. Next time I go I plan to spend more time there. Thus our 100 mile journey was completed. 103.85 to be exact.
A truly incredible experience. This is one of those lifetime things that you cannot miss. After a night in Fort William we boarded the train down to Glasgow. It was a 4-Hour ride that retraced the majority of our journey. Of course the weather was beautiful that day. But we were able to see people hiking the trail in the distance
It was quite a sense of accomplishment to say we did that. I feel very blessed to have had this experience. Thank you Scotland and all of your hospitality.