No lightning bugs, yet…
But one heck of a fun time. Very happy to be among this group. We had great camaraderie a wonderful fire, perfect weather.
What else could you ask for?
Maybe you could ask for a beautiful rendetion of an aptly named song. I present, Timberland for your enjoyment.
……………Two Years Ago Today………….
Some things will remain forever etched in your soul. This was yesterday to me. What you may not know, however, is that for his part in this rescue, my friend, Neal Kushwaha, was awarded the Canadian Humane Society Medal of Bravery. And it was fully deserved.
https://www.blueridgeoutdoors.com/magazine/june-2019/blood-in-the-snow/
Back to the CNF
Saturday was one of those glorious nights you will always remember. Record cold had caused the thermometer to bottom out and register an historic low temperature. AJ and Jon Dempsey had gone up to our secret spot because it is so full of goodness. I was accompanied by Seth who grabbed this beatiful shot.
That cresting wave isHangover and this is one of the best views of it I’ve ever seen.
Seth settles into this beautiful beautiful area.
AJ and Jon had been on a bit of a walkabout.
They had some rain the tonight before.
Fireside we regaled Seth with old men tales of mountains and beyond. I can’t believe the number of crisp days we’ve had to enjoy this Wilderness. It is truly a blessing to be in this place with such good company and perfect weather.
Seth definitely has an eye. He knows about product placement.
I promised you something on Jeffrey’s Hell from a couple of weeks ago and haven’t forgotten. I have been working diligently on something that is being edited. In the mean time, let’s get back to some tunes. How about a lot of guitar work by the amazing Billy Strings.
Mill Branch
It’s really nice when you have a professional photographer in tow.This weekend we were fortunate to be accompanied by my friend, Seth Dortch
That’s him on the right with the thumbs up.
We climbed 1400 feet up Mill branch and 2.3 miles to meet Curt. It’s a nice pull in sections.Curt began his journey the day before leaving from Beech Gap. He traveled along the spine of the Fodderstack trail and camped at Crowder branch on Friday. The next morning he got up and did a gargantuan loop which brought him back up Mill Branch and into our company.
We set about with the requisite camp chores.
He’s definitely got the minimalist thing going.
This was one of his first East Tennessee Appalachian backpacks, I’d say he does get a thumbs up for that.
Rightfully tuckered.
He may have the bug and is shopping for some lightweight gear.
I’m about to overdose on Citico goodness. It has been many years since I had stayed at Mill branch. This trip was very reminiscent of the time we ran into Tipi here. I am still recovering from the 3-day epic Mark and I just completed. Expect a full report within the next week.
Excellent outing, excellent company, excellent weather.
Let’s end with a little concert action from two of the greatest guitar pickers of all time.
Jeffrey’s Hell Epic
Folks,
This was one for the books. So much so, that I am going to take a bit of time to put it together properly. Let it suffice to say we went thoroughly to the “Back of Beyond” and survived to tell about it. I’m going to leave you with a teaser for two reasons. One, so I can have time to put this story together. Two, we are going back out again this weekend and I have to do some work in between. Mark Jones was my partner on this bushwhack and below is one of the little “issues” we had. (spoiler alert, there were a few). But all is well that ends well.
Also, I have been posting flashback memories from two years ago from Everest on my instagram feed. On this day in 2018, for example, we were making our way through the Western Cwm between camp 1 and 2.
Stay posted for updates on this wild excursion.
p.s. If anyone here has any acumen with regard to Strava, I could use some assistance. My epic on this journey got stuck in my android phone, and I cant upload it to Strava.
Peace,
John
Back up to Crowder branch and wildflower goodness
There is a section of the Crowder Branch trail that reaches a 47% grade. Mark Jones and I tackled this project just a couple of days after having been there on another trip.
It is a hefty haul getting up to the top of Crowder Branch this way.
I was trying to capture the steep angle of trail here but it doesn’t do justice to The climb.
Just two days before when I was there not half of these wildflowers were poking out of the ground.
Probably one of the best specimens of Jack-in-the-Pulpit I’ve ever seen.
Ascending through vegetation and blowdowns, we encountered an incredibly steep section. Unbeknownst to me, Mark had taken a tumble and nearly pierced his ear. I will not show you a photo of the damage per his request. But,he was bleeding like a stuck hog.
the final mile and a half is pretty much in the stream so there are some considerable crossings to be made the after a big rain storm.
You may remember we made the same ascent back in the fall.
Shortly, we were right back on the same spot where I had spent the night two days before. And it was so glorious be underneath the stars that were promising to show us some meteors. The meteor shower never happened. But, great company and conversation ensued. (Yes, there were plenty of derogatory comments made about our Grifter in Chief and his cabal of criminals masquerading as a president. I hate to be an “I told you so” but I did. Now that Trump has killed people with his lack of leadership on Covid, people are starting to come around. Of course, way more damage can and will be done because all the Republicans in power have ensured Putin can directly influence elections by voting down election security. So you may well have this Mango Mussolini for another term thanks to Marsha Blackburn and Moscow Mitch) By all means, though, please don’t look behind the curtain.
After an indescribably restful evening, and glorious fire, we lounged about the next morning departing right after coffee- thirty. I had encouraged Mark to go out the Farr Gap route and get into new miles.
Mark was not disappointed, and neither was I taking a solo journey back down Crowder branch. Here are a few notes about Crowder branch. You need to bring your route finding ability. This is more like a man way than a trail. Do not attempt after a big rain storm. I’ve done this several times and still get a little bit turned around in a couple of places. If you were thinking of attempting this and have questions just email me and I will share what little bit I know.
You see some strange sights in the backcountry. Looks like a bird lost its fight with a snake or something. There is an egg right there. On our way out we saw the most beautiful fox specimen. He had an almost gray looking coat but it was definitely a fox and he was in great health.
I’m not posting any pictures of Mark at his request. But we did have a magnificent time even though Myers wasn’t able to join us.
I’ll finish with one final wildflower that I know Rocky Ledge can identify.
Peace
John
Crowder Branch
Some places are so unique I visit them with regularity. This weekend I was joined by AJ, Richard, Wildcat, lieutenant Dan, Kurt and Brian.
Ole , AJ, aka Otis, came in from Norris Lake Visa via Georgia. It was great to see him.
- I began hiking alone up Farr Gap on Saturday.. I will tell you the road up Citico creek is in as bad a shape as I’ve ever seen it. My little Suzuki was maxed out and bottoming out.
- Anyway ,about three-quarters of the way on my hike to Crowder Branch I encountered Brian our friend from Bob’s Bald. He had followed directions and was looking for the campsite at Crowder meadow and was unable to find anyone.
- That’s because Richard and Wildcat had done the same thing AJ and Jon had done the last time I met them up there. They hiked down Crowder branch and stayed near the water.
- Pretty soon Kurt came in and we were united up at Crowder branch. Minus Richard, Lt. Dan and Brian once I pointed him in what I suspected was their campsite.
- We had no more than began to set up our tents when we had a visitor in camp.
- Bryan DeLay had come up from the Stiffknee route Laurel and I had completed a couple of years ago. He was really looking forward to having some solitude in this beautiful spot. Unfortunately he was about 45 minutes too late. But we all enjoyed each other’s company. (photos below from Kurt’s Strava, That is me speaking with Bryan.)
- Darkness ensconced us and we found ourselves down at Richard’s campsite and their magnificent fire. I spotted this jewel right in the middle of their camp. Very surprised to see one this early at this altitude.It wasn’t until I looked up our last trip here and saw the very same flower in the very same spot! As a matter of fact, as I looked back over those photos, it looks like Richard in the webpage that was chainsawing a tree that had fallen across Farr Gap road. Is that Richard? I didn’t know him back then, could it be? Richard? Wouldn’t that be unbelievable. Check it out.
- We solved the world’s problems underneath an unblemished starscape in the wilderness. As my friend Wayne calls it, medicine. Don’t we need medicine right now that isn’t attached to a pharmaceutical company? I slept like a baby. So did everyone else. After my last night out on Bob’s Bald in that incredible storm, it was pleasant to have nothing but star wash to bathe in.
- Several of our group had never visited this area. I carry my fishing rod to hit the creek on the way out. Citico Creek skunked me though.
- Again the road through and to Citico is horrible.
- Brian DeLay is apparently an internet Superstar with his YouTube backpacking channel. Here is a link to that.
- If this post seems hurried, it is because I am preparing to leave again for Citico Wilderness in the morning for another overnight. This weather is splendid and not to be missed. I hope everyone is well and getting some outside time.
A Stormy Night on the Bob
Going by the looks of this photograph, you would think it was a peaceful and solemn evening atop Bob’s bald in the Nantahala National Forest.
And indeed that is how it began. Strava provides some detail about the ascent from Beech Gap. You may have heard that the Cherohala Skyway was closed from the North Carolina side. The barrier began right at the trailhead for Beech Gap. Last weekend we enjoyed our final overnight trip into the Smokies. I knew they were going to close this resource, and am very grateful to have gotten a trip in on the final weekend. It is just a matter of time before they close off all parks and public lands during this time of pandemic.Just check out what has been closed as of today in National Forest lands. https://www.blueridgeoutdoors.com/covid-19-updates/appalachian-trail-trailheads-closed-in-wnc/ I believe that being outside is critical for our mental health, especially when we face such social isolation measures as the world now embraces.
this is Richard casually launching his kite in winds that in no way resembled what they turned out to be later.
We were joined by a wildcat, AKA Bert Emerson and Brian.
The stage was set for a wonderful Blazer top Bob’s bald.
Richard took care of dinner in the form of venison backstraps carefully marinated over the roaring fire. It was delicious.
There weren’t many other folks up there but the ones that were gravitated towards our little congregation. We enjoyed their company.
The setting sun gave little indication of what was to come.
Fueled by an ever-increasing wind, was midnight before I ambled back over to where I had left my tent. Much to my chagrin it was not there. it had blown down off the side of the hill and was wrapped around a tree. All of my stuff was intact and I was able to move it with the help of one of our neighbors, Luke. The rain was gearing up and an army of thunder was climbing the hill.
The cacophony increased and by 3 a.m. my tent walls were closing in on me. The same was true of us all up there. Bert was camping out beneath a tarp. The rain was blowing in sideways beneath the vestibule of my tent. I was reminded of December on Aconcagua.
And that is when the lightning began. I was more concerned about lightning hitting the ground near me and radiating up through my sleeping pad. It was a battle between my tent poles and water in a storm all night.
Despite the fearsome gale, we all survived. But I was ready to beat a hasty retreat off the mountain.
Brian and I departed as Richard was preparing another gourmet breakfast. Coffee, for me, would have to wait until Tellico Plains.
I telephoned a couple of friends on my way back home who related the severity of the storm in East Tennessee. Power was still out in several areas. I have been in some bad storms before. One of the worst, as mentioned above, was on Aconcagua in January. We just descended from the summit at at 9 p.m. a huge wind storm blew up. It threatened to blow our tents off the side of America’s highest peak. We evacuated that saying the next morning. Much as I did off of Bob’s bald Sunday morning. Here is a video of that event, I tried to edit the unfortunate word choice, sorry.
As my friend Bunyan of the Muir Faction mused, John Muir would have been up in a tree. Ask for me in this situation my tent assumed that role.
Now let’s end with some guitar jams. We need music during these dark times and this assemblage rocks down the house with their level of talent. Enjoy, stay safe and healthy everyone. John
Smokies Distancing
Jo
We carefully followed CDC guidelines with regard to our outdoor time in the Smokies this weekend. Our posse maintained appropriate social distances and our tents were nowhere near the vicinity of each other.
We were, after all, in the company of a man who used to head up be Knox county health department, Mark Jones.
Mark in all his outdoor dapper. And he’s mad as hell and not gonna take it anymore.
(Nick crafted this one)
But nothing like this Rambo who emerged from the woods as if he changed in a phone booth somewhere. Yes, it’s Country Pleasin Richard.
We even had a cameo from old Ballerina Britches and Houston. Given Nick’s ability to manage the fire and Richard’s tireless work on wood we had a good blaze all night.
We were joined by our new friend Chris, who came in solo and shared the fire with us until about 1 in the morning.
Abrams was a raging torrent, always beautiful.
I know we live in uncertain times now and many people are consumed by anxiety. I think all of us are. As for me, I am self-employed. Most folks don’t understand my relationship with the schools etc. I am a private contractor with no benefits whatsoever. That includes sick days, vacation, retirement, the whole kit and kaboodle. Therefore, If I don’t work, I don’t get paid. I am not putting this out there for sympathy, rather context. As we speak, corrupt politicians are crafting legislation to give corporations a huge bailout, just like in 2008. Think about this for a minute. If you are an employee of a school, large company etc, there is going to be some form of employment insurance for you. But zero for folks like me. However, these millionaires, backed by their republican lackeys, are scheming to not only manipulate more of our tax dollars for their stock buybacks, but are trying to use this virus as an opportunity to seize our civil liberties as well. William Barr, the most crooked AG in history, has just proposed suspending civil liberties and asking congress to give him power to detain people indefinitely. It is so bad that even right wing Tim Burchett, my “esteemed” representative has proclaimed it a huge over reach. https://www.rollingstone.com/politics/politics-news/doj-suspend-constitutional-rights-coronavirus-970935/
I realize that many of you supported Trump. You are watching his mishandling of this virus and people are dying as a result. Had we a competent leader in office, (eg anyone other than a man who bankrupted four personal businesses and squandered his inheritance) this pandemic could have been mitigated. Well, its too late. All you can do is support Biden.
Biden was not my number one choice, that would have been Elizabeth Warren. Why, you may ask? Simple. Because she spent her life championing the oppressed. You judge someone by their history. I will never understand how people looked at Trump’s history and deemed him fit for office. However, Biden is competent to run this country and not a corporate shill. And I know, deep down, even my Republican friends are now secretly saying this. I’ve been trying to warn people about Trump since day 1. Now people are dying because of his negligence and corruption. And what is the response of our senate leadership? To craft legislation to give our money to corporations. The only way out of this crisis is to put money in the hands of people who will stimulate the economy and feed their families, not corporations who line their rich their pockets. Pray to God with all your power and might. There is nothing new under the sun, Ecclesiastes tells us. This has been happening for centuries. But, we can spend this time seeking wisdom and holding OUR elected reps accountable. Send emails to your congresspeople. The lives of your family members may depend upon it. And quit watching and listening to right wing media outlets who have been spouting Russian propaganda for three years.
These are interesting times. We must help each other but first we have to get on our knees and seek divine wisdom and guidance and mercy. If someone is telling you to ignore science and lying about the seriousness of anything to manipulate you, they are people who belong to the father of lies. And the Bible is quite clear on this. Satan has always relied upon deception to advance his kingdom here on earth. What you are hearing is not always the truth. And in the case of Trump, everything you are hearing is usually deception. This is clearly documented. When I watch evangelists who say he is “the chosen one” etc, I know we are living in the evil matrix. Those who sow discord and division are not of God. They thrive on chaos. We all know this from experiences in our personal lives. Run away from divisive people. In the case of our leadership, we have a choice in November, provided the Russians aren’t allowed to re hijack our elections.
Enough of my diatribe. Let’s get back to some music. I found this the other day and am overwhelmed by the talent of this young lady. Of course, it is my favorite Zeppelin song, so please enjoy and take care of yourself.
The Tahoe Turnaround
This is a photo of me beating a hasty retreat from South Lake Tahoe. It seems counterintuitive to depart in the midst of the best snow they’ve had all year. But the decision was not mine to make; it was Vail resorts Incorporated. Thank you very much.
I 50 was chain restricted. And “sporting”, to say the least. It took me 4 hours to cross over Echo Pass. I can now attest to the attributes of the Toyota Highlander AWD and hill control systems. The SUV upgrade was justified.
But it didn’t begin like that. My spring break promised to be full of powder, intermittent sunshine and bountiful recreation. I had purchased a season pass the year before. The one outing it saw any use was absolutely sublime. It was a powder day. Little did I know it would be my only ski day.
I established basecamp at the hard Rock Cafe and casino. Pursuant to my first day of skiing I got the dreaded notification. Vail resorts was closing North American operations for the virus. A couple of the hotel staff intimated that the reason Heavenly and Vail resorts was shutting down is because they expected to receive a bailout from Trump. (Why work when you can get free taxpayer money for sending your employees home and reinvesting that money back into your own stock? This is corporate socialism at the highest level.)
I then realized that I needed to hightail it back home. American airlines was unreachable and I was scheduled to leave a week later. Plus they have a $200 change fee.
I ended up having to book three separate legs on Frontier, and pay separately for all of them. That cost about $250.
So last night I gave myself a consolation dinner at the Sage room, my favorite restaurant in North America.
The sage steak is the best prepared piece of meat you will ever have. And the service and views are unmatched. Perched atop Harvey’s casino this dining experience is unparalleled. Just listening to myself, you would think that I was some type of paid influencer. However, I paid quite a bit for this meal and savored every morsel. You will concur. Trust me.
9.30 pm, Las Vegas airport
The first leg of my departure triathlon was a success.Relatively speaking, of course. I had to purchase another airline ticket because American was unreachable by phone. That cost $240 on Frontier. (And while I am complaining, why is it that you cannot purchase a ticket to Knoxville from Sacramento on Frontier, but can purchase three separate tickets from Sac to Vegas to Denver to Knoxville. Perhaps it is because that is such a ridiculous itinerary they presume no one would ever buy it.) Presently I am awaiting a 1.30 a.m. red-eye to Denver. Surrounded by masked human zombies, I battle through the apocalypse. Everyone knows that I am THE most likely person to contract this scourge. Presently, My health status would be described as a cautious “fantastic”. All my colleagues think I had the plague already. In reality, I was sick continuously since return from Argentina. This is the first time I have felt 💯. Knock on wood.
This amused me. At the Hard Rock is a lot of memorabilia. But, the Elvis karate gi is priceless. He looks drugged up, and probably was. They said that when he came to Tahoe he was always short of breath. So much so they had to build in in varying intermissions during his shows.
John Davis is a Kenpo practicioner. We have a running joke about the mixture of our respective styles. While ice climbing in Alaska in 2018, http://southernhighlanders.com/new/2018/03/15/alaskan-ice/ we created a fictitious entity that called upon the mixture of Alpine, mixed ice route climbing and martial arts. We joked that those skills would be called upon when some high-altitude ass kicking was in order. We named our team Permafist.
Over the years we’ve had a great many laughs over this comical creation. Much to the chagrin of Neil and Lee who tolerate our adolescent antics for fear of facing Permafist unleashed. About once a month one of us will text the other with a photo of our closed fist which indicates a potential for elevation to defcon 3. This virus could well provoke some gi wearing texts between us.
I obviously have some airport time on my hands. Everyone stay safe and healthy. Much love.
John